archive for April, 2005

article 59a

doll on doll action

although i’ve written articles on how to flirt with flight attendants [ask for vegetarian meal, stumble into the galley when looking for the loo, stare at them for the duration of the flight] it was only a few years ago that i joined the mile high club.

just after moving to london, i made a very concerted effort to keep in touch with my cali peeps… i think in my first year i flew back to the left coast maybe 10 times, almost always on virgin atlantic. they’re hands-down the friendliest, sexiest, trendiest airline, due in no small part to richard branson making it that way. they hire young and attractive flight crews, they have irreverent safety videos, they play music in the loos, they used to walk up and down the aisles serving shots of liqueur, and, at the time, they offered an under-25 discount.

oh, and virgin is the only airline to explicitly allow 2 people per cubicle. that is, mr. branson specifically instructs his flight crews to not forbid randy passengers from sneaking off to the toilets for a quickie.

anyway, back to my story…

i’m sat in my window seat, looking left out the window, having just concluded a delicious long weekend in san fran with my bois and grrrls. the 2 seats to my right are empty, cuz i flirted a bit with the check-in girl. or maybe just dumb luck. i have my magazines piled up, my noise-canceling headphones and minidisc player at the ready, and am hoping to catch some shuteye.

a few hours after take off, in the middle of my first film, i see a handsome flight attendant making his way down the aisle with the dinner service. he’s 30, black hair, blue eyes, very irish-looking. i unplug my headphones in anticipation and plop down my tray.

in the seats in front of me are a 40yo dad with his two bratty sons. they’ve been punching each other the whole flight, refusing to sit still, and dad’s going pink in the face trying to get them under control.

as mark the flight attendant pulls up to their row and locks his cart, we make eye contact for 0.08 seconds. hot. he turns to dad and sons to explain their menu options, at which point he’s kicked by one of the brats.

i can’t hear what they’re saying over the rumble of the engines, but from dad’s gesticulating and mark’s confused expressions, i can tell something’s not right. they chat for a few minutes, mark leaves, comes back and then i realize that 2 of their 3 video screens aren’t working.

this explains why the brats were so restless—a 12 hour flight with no shrek or animaniacs or spongebob to watch. mark apologizes, explaining there’s nothing he can do.

i grab his attention, explaining that dad and sons can swap rows with me, that it would be no problem whatsoever. relief creeps across mark’s face, and we start an elaborate dance in the aisle, the 4 of us with our meal trays and headphone cords and in-flight goody bags.

i sit down in my new seat, and mark leans over to thank me. as he touches my shoulder as a sign of gratitude, a wondrous electric shock travels down my spine. i assure him that it was no problem at all, and he continues down the aisle to finish serving dinner.

my attention turns back to the in-flight movie, and i gobble up my salmon and slurp back my red wine [shock! protocol!] meticulously [travel tip: eat slowly, as it will make the flight seem just that much shorter]. just as i’m finishing my meal, i see mark coming down the aisle with a big smirk.

he sits down next to me, which takes me by surprise, turns to me and tells me thank you again for being such a brilliant passenger… that was a very nice thing you did for me, i really do appreciate it. as a small token, i’d like to give you this! and he hands me a bottle of champagne. not a small plastic screw-top bottle. a big, fuck-off duty-free bottle of dom.

do i have to drink it now? i quip, my name’s eric, by the way. we shake hands, and this time i think we both feel the electric shock. we spend a few minutes talking, but neither of us are really paying any attention to the words… the eyes are saying it all.

in the lavatory, i lock the door behind me and the glaring fluorescent lights come on at full strength. he pins me up against the wall, we kiss, and i giggle. could be the altitude, could be the wine, but i think i’m mainly drunk off the inherent naughtiness of it all… that is the allure of the mile high club after all, isn’t it?

clothes come off, and i’m shocked to see that we don’t look half bad in the glaring overhead lights. cramped quarters, but i get the feeling he’s done this before. as we move into in-flight kama sutra position #37, he warns me, watch out for the soap dispenser!

he’s definitely done this before.

slacker

computer-rendered landscape of a typical office

reading, solitude, idleness, a soft and sedentary life, intercourse with women and young people, these are perilous paths for a young man, and these lead him constantly into danger.

—jean-jacques rousseau

make poverty history

bono speaking at the ted conference

if you’re looking for an awesome explanation of exactly how the make poverty history and one campaigns are intending to solve africa’s problems, or in case you’re wondering why these problems exist, or why we’ve ignored africa, or maybe if you want to know how fixing these problems might, in turn, help your own existence, you should absolutely check out bono’s acceptance speech, after winning the inaugural ted prize at the infamous ted conference.

i’m not exaggerating when i say that it’s one of the most intelligent and moving speeches i’ve ever heard. click the photo above to watch the best 10 minutes of his speech—i guarantee that you’ll be left with a fresh understanding and a hopeful optimism about what can be done.

have we met?

i am the gayest person you’ll ever meet.

see, that has all these negative camp connotations, doesn’t it? most people would interpret being the gayest to mean reciting showtunes and dressing up in drag. literally, though, it would mean having the most homosexual sex—that, presumably is what would constitute being the gayest person.

ok, so, strike that. what i meant to say is:

i have the gayest life of anyone you’ll ever meet.

that’s a bit more on the mark. i guess what i’m trying to say, is that after running a gay magazine, and living in san francisco, and with my gay adolesence in london leaving me with nothing but gay male friends, i feel as if my life is pretty darn gay.

the london lesbian & gay film festival was in town recently, and i managed to see an astounding 22 screenings of films.

i’ll be channeling my actual reviews into my new magazine, because, i mean really, you don’t want to read my pithy gimmicky reviews here, do you? like you care about what i have to say!

dorian blues

saw dorian blues with long-lost cousin michael. we had a hoot, and got incredibly drunk beforehand, got even more drunk afterwards at .discotec, where he pulled like 5 brazilians and i ended up with some crazy ukranian bloke.

the tasty bust reunion

the tasty bust reunion was the perfect film for .greg and i to watch, as we’ve both been contemplating a move to oz for some time. a heartwarming tale of injustice justified, and a cute, randomly in-depth look at the melbourne gay scene circa 1994.

ryan's life

along the same lines, watching ryan’s life evoked a raging discomfort in me. a cheesily happy, sugary, american, sitcom-esque coming-of-age story set in los angeles, i felt like i was watching a bad made-for-teevee version of my college years. west hollywood? bleargh! the raging discomfort comes from the fact that i’m most definitely moving back to los angeles… i’m hoping that my adult life there is entirely dissimilar to either portrayal of what young gay life is like there.

summer storm

atif pays attention to my myriad of stories, and is one of the few friends who can piece together the crazy segments of my life. after seeing the darling german coming-of-age romance, summer storm, he was kind enough to listen to me yarn on and on about those very defining summers that i spent in germany, camping [excuse the pun] with my host brother and his family. tobi & achim swimming through the muddy waters of that lake were entirely too too familiar to me.

body matters

body matters, a collection of surreal shorts centered around the human body, provided great fodder for the bizarre portugese lad, mario, that i’ve been crossing paths with over the past few months. from the painful documentary on ass hair removal, to the in-depth look at penis enlargement, mario’s bizarre running commentary had me and the surrounding audience in stitches. brill.

mysterious skin

for the closing night gala, i was lucky enough to drag along two big greg araki fans [flatmates wes and .greg] as well as scottish david, who i know has a sound enough political and cultural background with regards to queer life/cinema. the film mysterious skin engrossed me, and i felt so wonderful afterwards—glad to have been put through such an uncomfortable plot, to have to contemplate such provactive concepts. this is exactly why we love film festivals, queer cinema and indie films.

if nothing else, this year’s film festival has proved just how much queer cinema has improved in recent years. i think back to my journalistic days a few years ago, watching countless crap-ass lame-ass stupid-ass ass-ass [and not in a good way!] gay films, trying to find something good enough to write a review for. thankfully, the quote-unquote mainstream gay films have gotten more polished [and more mainstream], and the edgier fringe films have managed to shock and apall even someone like me, the gayest person you’ll ever meet.

haggis and black pudding are the least of my worries

glasgow statue with traffic pylon cone
it’s art, you ned

my first visit to scotland was on a surreal school trip when i was 15. it was surreal because only cheri and i signed up from my school, forcing us to get lumped in with a group of 12 from lubbock, texas. i learned a lot about scotland as well as the country of texas during our two-week bus tour of britain.

scotland acts like an older brother to england. a slightly condescending older brother. an older brother that’s a little bit less successful than its younger brother, but condescending nonetheless. an older brother that is a bit more worldly, a bit more european, and that is a bit more relaxed.

i look to the scottish friends i’ve made over the last few years, and i see several common threads. fluffer ian, murray, the two davids… first, they all seem to be incredibly conversational. not quite in an irish craic sort of way, but still significantly more easygoing, friendly and laid back than the stereotypically uptight english person.

second, i find the scottish to be bigger partiers than the english, but a helluva lot more controlled. when i think back to the many late night drinking sessions [where everyone's talking pish] and also to a few weekend-long clubbing excursions, it’s my scottish friends who are still going strong, whilst my english mates are vomiting in the street, urinating on the dancefloor, or worse. the 11 o’clock drinking up time in england creates a pressurized atmosphere for the 20-something generation who don’t understand the dangers of binge drinking or alcoholism generally.

third, the scottish seem to be rightfully proud of their heritage. not in a novel haggis, bagpipes, kilts and black pudding, aye! sort of way, but in a more subdued, we’re more european than england sort of way. the centuries of anti-english sentiment are still there, but i find that [in glasgow in particular] there’s a more worldly, more independent mindset.

i reckon this is my fourth trip to scotland, and probably my last for a while. i doubled my mass earlier this morning with a hearty scottish breakfast, replete with haggis and black pudding for old time’s sake. unfortunately, the breakfast was nauseating, and i had to leave before i could finish.

no, it wasn’t because the food was dodgy. nor was it because i’m hungover from last night. no, what put me off my breakfast were the pockets of american tourists throughout the breakfast room, whose booming, obnoxious, self-important accents dominated the pleasant, quiet sounds of chit-chat and clinking silverware at the other tables.

i need to get over my anti-american sentiment. please tell me not everyone’s a loudmouth tourist. please?

scottish tourism bored

shoddy? methinks not!

a gay bar is a gay bar is a gay bar.

it’s one of those universal truths i’ve learned over the course of my many travels. for the same reason, i avoid churches and castles and shopping malls and bowling alleys—you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all.

but still, any traveling gay homosexualist knows the benefits of showing up as fresh meat at the local bar. as such, i start my friday night conquering of glasgow by tiptoeing into delmonica’s.

thankfully i remembered to exchange my english pounds for scottish dollars earlier at the train station, because none of the gay bars accept english currency. i manuever my way to the bar, and smile at the cute bartender, who says something back to me, with a big smile. i could barely hear him over the bagpipes [and i don't speak scottish gaelic that well, anyway], but i think he was asking me for the time. i had just reset my watch from uk time, so i was able to tell him, it’s nay 10 o’clock.

i order a few cocktails to make myself more interesting [and to make the rest of the bar more attractive], and am pleasantly surprised to find that drinks only cost Sc$1.80, which is about 1 english pound—not bad!

the bar’s pretty crowded, with maybe 100 or so smiling scottish faces—this means it takes nearly 2 minutes for me to scan the entire crowd to check if my future husband was there. he wasn’t.

surveying the dancefloor, i notice that the lesbians are shorter than in london. this is certainly due to the altitude. i also notice that they’re much friendlier, which is probably just a fluke.

the gay boys up in glasgow sure know how to dress! i’ve never seen so many different lengths of kilts, so many different styles of tartans, and so many different topman cowboy shirts! huzzah! i feel a bit out of place wearing jeans rather than a kilt, but most everyone’s focusing on their traditional scottish line dancing anyway.

the scottish tourism board was nice enough to assign me a chaperone, who also is supposed to serve as a guide and translator during my visit to glasgow. david eventually shows up, and we spend some time getting to know each other. turns out that he was one of scotland’s first televison stars, appearing on several programs—one of them in color!

david introduces me to several lovely locals, and we all skip over to the polo lounge. the bars in glasgow are not only cheap, but also much less crowded than london, and there’s a straighforward drinking-up time: midnight for bars, 3am for clubs, 5am for clubs with traditional scottish dancing.

i’m impressed by the polo lounge… it feels a bit like a posh hotel lobby, with fireplaces and tons of seating and high ceilings and decent décor. the crowd is cruisy and comfortable, and i’m feeling very much at ease.

i love being a stranger in a strange land, as it means several things:

1) there’s a 0% probability i’ll run into any ex [or current] boyfriends.
2) i don’t have to be truthful to anyone about anything—lies all lies!
3) fresh meat is a tasty treat
4) nobody will recognize me from my escort ads in london

hours fly by, we have some more Sc$1.80 cocktails, and i find myself swimming through a dancefloor which is positively damp with cheap disco fog. every 3 minutes, the smoke clears just long enough for me to find david [my chaperone], who’s doing his best to introduce me to the locals.

around 2am, david explains to me that his shift is over, and passes me over to one of his colleagues from the tourism board, charlie. charlie is very cute, very scottish, very bright and very 21, and spends the next 16 hours explaining, in-depth, various nuances of scottish culture, concluding with a walking tour of glasgow’s more famous sights: the shopping malls, the cinema, that statue with the traffic cone on its head. i eagerly took notes and photos, but they were lost when i was riding one of the famous glasgow trolleys across town.

our tour culminated with a gourmet lunch at wetherspoons, a restaurant famous for its atmosphere and traditional scottish fare. feeling adventurous, i try the spicy chicken wrap with chips. if you ever come across this dish in your travels, try it—you’re in for a treat!

they all look the same

evening stroll

up hope street, past sauchiehall street and then all the way up renfrew street—no problem. i’m a skilled traveler, dammit, and i have no difficulty making my way across town.

as i freshen up at the hotel, i glance at the clock and see it’s already 930pm. there’s a bit of imaginary jetlag creeping through my body, but mostly excitement to be in an unfamiliar city.

j j rousseau was a french philosopher whose texts were often cited and repurposed by freedom fighters during the late 18th century french revolution. he was a melancholy, introspective man [as many philosophers are], but i identify with many of his musings, particularly those taken from the reveries of a solitary walker:

it is only when i am alone that i am my own master. at all other times i am the plaything of all who surround me.

i also love my 80s soft-rock power ballads, ala chicago:

everybody needs a little time away, i heard her say, from each other. even lovers need a holiday, far away, from each other.

somewhere between these two quotes lies my excuse for running off to glasgow for the weekend. it’s been billed as one of the cultural capitals of europe. it’s a city i’ve never been too. i’ve heard nothing but great things from mates who have been. and, i have yet to meet a scot i don’t like.

strolling around the city centre on a chilly friday night, i immediately notice that the alcohol-fueled chav ned culture is in full effect. loads of lads running around in t-shirts [i'm not paying a pound for coat check!] shouting at each other and the passing girls, whose chubby bits are barely contained by their clothing. it’s not nearly as bad as, say, most college towns or even central london—but it’s still here and i’m negotiating through it, praying to not get preyed upon by a hen party.

i also immediately notice how uniformly white everyone is. i’ve spotted a few asian people, but i don’t think i’ve seen a single black person since i’ve arrived. interesting. unexpected. what does it all mean?

sauchiehall at night

just as i start to doubt that glasgow is the cultural metropolis everyone’s billed it as, i turn the corner to find a 20-piece brazilian samba drum band banging away in the middle of the street. it’s chilly, it’s 10pm, but i’m loving it. as i bounce around for a few songs, the crowd swells to maybe 100 people, blocking traffic in the street. this all feels so very—european. i get a text from my only friend in glasgow, david, telling me he’s on his way into town.

my gaydar subconsciously drags me towards merchant city, where all the gay bars are. i mentally map where they all are, and continue on my leisurely
sightseeing stroll. i keep getting accosted by beggars and big issue-sellers, probably cuz i’m lazily meandering and on my own. there’s one persistent beggar, though, who chases me, forcing me to crash into this cute lad.

ooops, sorry about that! i explain, embarrassed.

ach, ’tis no problem, mate, he starts laughing, making eye contact and flashing a smile.

looking up, i realize that it’s my old pal david. the last time i saw him, he looked a bit scruffy, but i can see now that he’s reverted back to his clean-cut look from his television days.

oh my god, hello! i shout as i hug him.

he hugs me back, laughing, erm, okay!

so, how are you doing?! i ask

he pulls away, laughing still, and starts walking away.

for the 3 years i’ve known david, we’ve always had a bizarrely sarcastic and joking relationship. always tossing zings and quips back-and-forth, always slagging each other off. i assume he’s just playing around, so i chase after him.

oi, david, wait up!

he glances over his shoulder, but keeps walking.

oi, david, spare any change? i joke.

he stops, turns to me, and asks, how do you know my name is david?

hmm…

confused, i tell him, david, it’s me, eric! maybe he doesn’t recognize me without the blond yellow hair?!

he looks at me, backs away, and shouts,

sorry, mate, i don’t know you! and runs off.

i let him go.

later, when i finally meet up with the real david, i debate whether or not to even tell him this story.

i do relay my tale, of course, because nothing breaks the ice like a little bit of self-deprecation and humorous humiliation. well, that and because eric loves to tell his stories.

over the course of the next few days, i realize that much of glasgow looks like david, walks like my ex stuart, or sounds like my old manager murray.

on the train

choo choo

i’m thinking, as i often do when i travel, what would it take for me to end up right there, right there in the middle of that huge, luscious green field over by the hillside? what would it take? or to hike up that hill?

or, to have dinner with the family in that isolated house, that house with the smoking billowing out of its chimney, that house with no satellite dish or television aerial, just a dim light coming from the windows.

or, hell, to live there, full stop? to be the only gay in the village. would it be as quaint and isolated as i hope? probably not. but it’s fun to let my mind drift.

i’ve been on the train for a few hours, heading north from london to glasgow. i’ve been staring out the window now for a while. we’ve just passed through lancaster and presston, and just as the train climbs past oxenholme into the lake district, some enchanting tunes by the album leaf creep into my ears, mixing with the gorgeous rolling green landscape to cause a clichéd traveler’s response—feeling euphoric, feeling nostalgic, seeking out beauty in unfamiliar surroundings, contemplating how stunningly beautiful landscapes such as these are, to a city-dweller like myself.

i spent the first half of the journey trying to guess the identities of my fellow passengers. the cute young gay couple who have been eying me up for most of the journey so far just got off at the last station. one was 18, the other 20, and i couldn’t help but notice how friendly and affectionate they were towards each other, excitedly chatting and pointing at things out the window. as they disembarked, an old woman and old man started chatting with them—i realized then, of course, that they were brothers and not boyfriends.

if you’ve seen the show arrested development, you’ll be familiar with the gravely voice of gob, the bluth brother who, aside from being a failed magician, tries constantly to take control of the family business from his brother michael. the few times this afternoon i’ve been brave enough to take off my headphones, i’ve had to endure the relentless, booming, obnoxiously american tourist accent of the man behind me, who sounds precisely like gob. he’s been yapping incessantly about some presentation he’s working on, debating what color his diagrams should be. i want to hit him, but perhaps it’s good practice for my return to the u.s.a. in a few weeks.

and, sat next to me, are two 40yo women and two 10yo boys, all dressed in bicycling rain gear, who are presumably taking the train home after a lovely all-day bike ride. they’re soaked but cheerful, and there’s a strong rapport between the two ladies. could this be a new-millennium alternative family? or am i just seeing everything through rose-tinted gay goggles? probably just two neighboring housewives taking their kids for a day out, but maybe they’re authentic scottish lezzies. who knows?

the gorgeous countryside continues to roll by, punctuated by sheep and weekend caravans and village football games as the cloudy gray skies get darker. since leaving london a few hours ago, i’ve realized, of course, just how english the rest of england is. brick houses, stone fences, quaint haphazard villages—not the towering council blocks i’m so used to seeing at home and on teevee.

as we lumber up into scotland, the air gets thinner, the accents thicker, and my outlook begins to improve.

deep ends

blue sofa

the egg timer that manages my life is just about to rrrrrrrring again. every four years or so, the ticking gets louder, life comes to a roaring boil, and then rrrrrrrring! off it goes.

four years ago, it was the dot-com implosion in san francisco which catapulted me from my 23yo yuppie adult lifestyle to my 23yo adolescent hedonistic existence in london which i’m still enjoying to this very minute. gobbling up the tasting menu of delicious experiences and romances and adventures that can only happen when london is the restaurant you’re dining at.

four years before that, i was ending my morose geeky caltech student life to move up to the gay bay for ridiculous stock options and a salary that i couldn’t spend quickly enough, since i was clocking 60-80 hours a week. muddled romances while i tried to find my fairytale prince.

four years prior to that, i was delivering my valedictory speech at my teeny high school in indiana, naively encouraging my class to carpe diem whilst underneath it all trying to figure out how to get as far away from red state mentality as i could. secretly, naughtily falling in love for the first time, with the most taboo of boys.

four years before that, i was struggling through my first real girlfriend, trying to navigate through the delicate social battleground of high school and spots, and my monumental trip as an exchange student to deutschland.

four years before that was the year my mom moved house, my step-dad got removed from the picture once and for all, my dad moved far away, my baby step-sister was born, i started at a new school, i dropped out of the boy scouts and i had my first girlfriend. all i remember about that year is listening to music on my clunky first-generation discman. loudly.

and now… the egg timer’s ticking, and i’m formulating my most elaborate next chapter yet. i could claim that it’s some cosmic coincidence that every four years my life drastically shifts gears. that every four years, a giant gauntlet gets thrown down which demarcates a new chapter of my life. but, at the age of 28, i’m beginning to understand a lot more about myself.

i aspire to be ambitious and outgoing and personable and successful. however, at my very core is an eric that becomes complacent and is introverted—relatively speaking. i uproot myself, i shift gears, i start anew every now and again, effectively throwing myself into new deep ends to force myself out of whatever rut i happen to be in.

career-wise, at the start of my stints at scient and xy and yahoo, i noticed that not only did my productivity go through the roof, but all the other components of my life seemed to gear up nicely as well.

the challenges, the uncertainties, the subtle self-doubts pumped me up into the intelligent, social, organized person that i long to be, resulting in a glow of confidence, a social grace which could charm just about anyone crossing my path. swapping careers, moving to foreign lands, challenging myself in school or in personal projects—it’s these occasional self-inflicted boots-to-the-head that keep me on track… on track to my long-term goals, on track to short-term happiness.

today is the first day of the rest of my life. again. after a rocky month, today i’ve started plotting, planning, chatting, packing, visualizing, and—most importantly—smiling.

i’m damned pleased with the first 7 chapters, and chapter 8 is going to be the best yet.

sunday in vauxhall

vauxhall

gay bars and pubs and clubs are more than just places where you can overdose on ghb, have anonymous sex in the toilets, or spread unfounded rumors about your exes. uniquely, they provide a safe haven when you can socialize with the gays, mingle with the lezzies, let your guard down from homophobic thugs and feel part of a bigger something-or-other.

bollocks.

i spent my early 20s living on castro street, the gayest street in the gayest city on the planet, san francisco. the irony of it all, as i’ve had to repeat hundreds of times, is that san francisco has a dreadful gay scene. the city is expensive, driving out people with low-paying jobs [e.g. young people]. the city is small [pop. 600,000]. and, even now, the city is still reeling reactively to the aids crisis of the 80s. these things add up to tiny, bland, asexual gay scene.

the 2 or 3 bars worth going to close at 2. there’s not a proper nightclub anywhere, except for the out-of-the-way and stuipidly-circuity club universe, which is only one night a week. if you’re lucky to meet anyone in a club, chances they’ll be 10 years older than you, and/or anti-one-night-stand, and/or they live off the peninsula and/or they’re dressed poorly and/or they can’t dance.

after being in london for nearly 4 years, i’m still astounded, and sometimes distressed, by the variety of pubbing/clubbing options available to me. over the past year, my neighborhood of vauxhall has become a second soho, with the souf-of-the-river stigma vanishing as more great club nights popup.

sunday in vauxhall:

beyond, duh.

start at .beyond at club colliseum, which runs 4am-noon. i foolishly bought an expensive membership a few months ago, but it gets me past the [sometimes hours-long] queues. inside, the expansive club [3 rooms, 3 bars, 2 lounges] is home to the best house/trance/techno deejays in london. hands-down, the best dance music, the most impressive sound systems and lasers. lots of shirtless latin types, but plenty of freaks thrown in for good measure. rules of society don’t apply here—anything goes in this club. most people are on k or pills, drinks are cheap.

after .beyond, head to later at .fire, which runs from noon-5pm. like a miniature version of .beyond [2 rooms, 2 bars, 1 lounge], this club takes in all the freaks who can’t stop dancing from the night before. this free sunday afternoon party features funky house in one room, and banging hardcore in the back, replete with gatecrasher kidz in furry legwarmers, and an old hippy selling nitrous balloons.

stop off at the infamous royal vauxhall tavern for, what is effectively a bear beer bust. grab a few pints and take a break on the lawn out back, watching out for used condoms and hypodermic needles from the night before. there are two parties, one goes from noon-6pm, the other from 6pm-midnight. it’s all the same, though… beer + bear + house + hair.

the shining gem of vauxhall has to be horse meat disco at .south central. the music is a mix of raunchy electro and disco b-sides. the party goes 1pm-1am but nobody gets there before 6pm. the place is a dive, and quite small, but gets rammed with friendly freaks, creating a uniquely mixed crowd. flirting with the staff results in free sambuca. bleargh.

around 11pm, it’s time to head to marvellous, which has recently relocated to .crash. marvellous is like .popstarz on crack… a little bit indie, a little bit house. 2 big rooms, 1 smaller vip room and 1 dodgy darkroom in the middle. i love it because i can sing along to richard x b-sides and depeche mode remixes. they have a huge poster of kelly osbourne and free drinks before midnight.

next to .crash is a newish club, naffly named club supremo and soon to be renamed factory. on sunday nights it’s host to la3, which is presumably some straight-acting scally night, you know, the type of place that bills itself as a club for lads who like lads. we’re gonna walk past this club, and the new sauna [under construction, rumors indicate it will be the biggest in london], past the raunchier clubs like hoist, back to .fire.

orange at .fire runs 11pm-noon every sunday night/monday morning. 2 rooms, with warm lazers and vocal house in the front, harder techno in the back. the staff are ridiculously friendly, which is useful when you’re trying to articulate a drink order after being awake for 48 hours. they love surprising the bleary-but-up-for-it crowd at 4am with some diva vocalist belting out some soul on top of some warm house. signature track: audio bullys/nancy sinatra mashup of bang bang.

as an alternate to orange at .fire, you could head back to where you started, to the new sunday night at club colliseum, called dreams. more of the same, just a different venue with a bit more space, and a bit naughtier of a playground.

as you stumble home monday morning, you’ll see horrified commuters who can spot you a mile away. your back has soaked through your t-shirt. your eyes are as wide as saucers. you’re glistening with sweat. you smell like an ashtray puking up tequila. you forgot how to use your travelcard. empty pastic bags are tumbling behind you like tumbleweed. but, it’s okay, see… that’s one of the benefits of being decadent on a monday morning, you get say a big screw you to the 9-5 crowd.

all of these clubs are within 5-10 minutes of each other, all in vauxhall, all on a sunday night. there’s also the amazing dtpm at megaclub fabric [huge cavernous club, a bit glam, a bit latin, expensive], booteeq at rouge [a bit more urban, hip-hop oriented, expensive], the tiny cruisy latin night at .ghetto.

it freaks me out, all of these decadent options on my doorstep. clubbing is one of my main forms of exercise, and i very easily succumb to peer pressure, so i’m pretty much screwed. still, though, when i meet somebody and tell them i used to live in san francisco, they immediately assume i must be some sex fiend pervert that lived a crazy amsterdam-style existence. they assume i must be warped and experienced and kinky and that, surely, i’ve seen it all.

that’s true, but it has nothing to do with the time i spent in sleepy san francisco.




order viagra